Christmas markets in Sweden

Christmas is just a little over a month away, and that means the holiday markets are in full swing in Sweden. The markets start up in early November and continue on until Christmas. Some last for just a few days, while others are open daily for a month or more before the holiday. Most are annual events, so even if it's too late to attend some of the fairs this year, they'll come around again next year. Here are several popular markets around the country.

STOCKHOLM AREA

Held every year since 1903, the Christmas festivities at the Skansen open-air museum are a Stockholm tradition. The Christmas market is held Saturdays and Sundays in Advent. Christmas decorations, Sami crafts from Lappland, textiles, and woodcrafts are among the many items for sale. On market days there's dancing around an outdoor tree to the tunes of a Christmas band. Even on weekdays, you'll find good old-fashioned Swedish Christmas traditions and atmosphere inside Skansen's historic houses and farmsteads, as well as holiday concerts in historic Seglora Church. On the final weekend, a special "Ice on Fire" celebration ("Isen brinner") lights up the darkest nights of winter with fire and ice, food and music. 2009 dates: November 28-December 20; open daily 10-4. Admission fee. More info

Another Stockholm tradition is the annual Christmas market in Gamla Stan. During the month before Christmas, Stortorget, the medieval cobblestoned square at the heart of the Old Town, fills with cozy red booths selling such goods as traditional Christmas decorations, high-quality crafts, and holiday snacks. 2009 dates: November 21-December 23; open daily 11-6. Free. More info

In the downtown retail district, a popular market is the one in Kungsträdgården park, which also boasts a popular outdoor skating rink all winter long. (Skates are available to rent.) 2009 dates: November 27-29 and December 4-22, open daily 11-6. Free. (Ice rink open October 31-March 7.)

For a Christmas market in a royal setting, head to Drottningholm Palace on the second weekend in Advent, when a popular annual market is held outdoors in the palace courtyard. For a special day trip, take the boat to Drottningholm from the City Hall Quay in Stockholm. 2009 dates: December 5-6; open 11-4. Free.

The Stockholm archipelago also gets into the Christmas spirit, most famously on Utö, where a popular Christmas market has been held for 33 years running. Near the ferry dock are several vendors' booths decorated for the holiday. A short walk up the hill leads to the main market on the grounds of the Utö Värdshus restaurant, which serves a well-known julbord (Christmas table). 2009 dates: December 5-6, 12-13, and 19-20; open Saturdays 10-5, Sundays 10-3. Free.

The Christmas market at the small palace of Taxinge Näsby, located west of Stockholm on Lake Mälaren, bills itself as the largest Christmas fair in Sweden. More than 130 master craftspeople display their products, along with vendors selling traditional foods for the Christmas table. The palace café is known for its delicious homemade breads, pastries, and other baked goods. 2009 dates: November 12-15 and 19-22; opening hours vary. Admission fee.

GOTHENBURG AREA

On the west coast, Gothenburg also has its fair share of Christmas markets. Now celebrating its tenth anniversary, the Christmas market at the city's famous amusement park, Liseberg, features roughly 80 stalls selling everything from traditional straw crafts and other holiday decorations to knit items to a mouth-watering array of foodstuffs. A special market inside the Liseberg Tower features works by major well-known designers and local artisans. There's also a wide range of other holiday entertainment, activities, and special events. 2009 dates: November 13-December 23; opening hours vary. Admission fee. More info

Another popular Gothenburg Christmas market is the one in Haga, the city's oldest district. The cobblestoned streets provide an atmospheric setting for crafts stands, Christmas goodies, and musical entertainment. 2009 dates: November 28-December 19; open Saturdays 10-4, Sundays 11-4. Free.

Outside Gothenburg proper, Tjolöholms Palace hosts one of the largest Christmas markets in western Sweden: a five-day event featuring approximately 100 artisans, craftspeople, and food vendors. The palace dining room serves coffee and pastries, the palace church offers musical entertainment, and Santa Claus himself is on site to receive wish lists from children. 2009 dates: November 18-22, opening hours vary. Admission fee.

OTHER AREAS

Another of the west coast's top Christmas fairs is the one at Wapnö, a large working farm near Halmstad. The historic farm buildings play host to more than 90 vendors selling everything from woodcrafts to silver to handmade candles to textiles, as well as a variety of Christmas delicacies. 2009 dates: November 19-22, hours vary. Admission fee.

Even larger is the Christmas fair at Huseby near Växjo in Småland, organized by the same people as the Wapnö market. The roughly 100 handicraft stalls include works in wood, ceramics, metal, straw, textiles, glass, and other materials.The market also features one of the largest assortments of small-scale and artisan food producers in the country, selling everything from baked goods, patés, and cheese to mulled wine and Christmas meats. 2009 dates: November 7-15 (already past). Admission fee.

Also in Småland, the historic 800-year-old Kalmar Castle makes a beautiful and atmospheric setting for its popular annual Christmas market. In a region of Sweden known for its handicrafts, this market features approximately 120 artisans and craftspeople, together with the usual traditional food vendors and holiday music in the castle church. 2009 dates: November 26-29, open Thursday 11-9, Friday 11-8, Saturday 10-6, and Sunday 10-5. Admission fee. More info

In the folkloric Dalarna region, Leksand's Christmas market is held on the first weekend in Advent. Along with all the usual Christmas market traditions, Leksand adds a historic and atmospheric twist with a medieval market, torch dancing, and choral singing. 2009 dates: November 28-29; open Saturday 10-6 and Sunday 12-6. Free.

Also in Dalarna, Falu Gruva (the Falun Mine) hosts an annual one-day oldfashioned Christmas market with 150 vendors and a variety of holiday activities in and around this historic 1300-year-old copper mine. 2009 date: Sunday, December 6, open 10-5. Admission fee. More info

Further north, at Östersund in Jämtland, the Christmas market at the Jamtli open-air museum features more than 200 vendors selling local products, musical entertainment, and plenty of holiday fun for children. Santa and Mrs. Claus have gingerbread cookies and fruit drink for the kids, while the Hov restaurant serves a traditional Swedish Christmas table with a Jämtland flavor. 2009 dates: December 4-6; open Friday 11–6, Saturday and Sunday 11-5. Admission fee. More info

Throughout November and December, there are countless other Christmas fairs and markets taking place in communities of all sizes throughout Sweden. The Swedish tourism office, VisitSweden, is a good resource for further information.